Show and Tell

In second grade show and tell was great. I remember being proud of things as small as a painted rock, and my teacher made sure that everyone else appeared to care as well. Smiling broadly I presented whatever I brought, and then compared the items of others. I was generally jealous of the kids with stay-at home moms and new puppies, and prided myself that I chose to paint a rock, rather than the kid with a green stick…

Growing up I never thought about how it felt to be the object, to be displayed and talked about. Of course there did appear in the classroom the periodic parent with a really cool job, but adult-hood seemed like such a far off dream that I concentrated on little more than how is was too bad we already had a teacher, so my mom wouldn’t be anything unique for show and tell.


Holding Pedro, his mom calls him my child, he does make the visits easier though!

Then I got to Paraguay. At first I thought everyone invited me everywhere with them because they liked me. Then it dawned on me that they were asking me if they could take me to their Associates house. Take me, like I took my rock. Word gets out further, and suddenly I find myself with invitations to be taken to the houses of people’s elderly parents, grandchildren, cousins, and estranged aunts five towns away.

An invitation is an invitation. It means mingling with the people I now work for. Best of all I imagine Peace Corps giving me a high five and whispering “yeah girl” every time I head out on foot or horse cart. After-all, I will be completing the 2nd goal of my work here: teaching Paraguayans about Americans and their culture...because inevitably one of my weird American quirks will make itself evident. Also, I tend to leave with funny gifts, but that’s another story. It’s a win win. So I go.

Upon the arrival at the stranger’s house, their lives are put on hold. They kiss my cheeks, kick someone out of a chair and make me sit in it, offer me juice or tea, admire my hair, ask me to look at their garden (when they hear I have one), ask me how Paraguay compares to Germany (I remind them that not all blond people are Germans who moved to Paraguay after World War II, and that I am actually from the US), talk to whoever brought me to the new place about me for a while (she is pretty, she is big, does she eat well? Does she speak Spanish? (funny considering I have been speaking to them in Spanish before this conversation begins), Guarani? (ditto)), and then the person responds with her precious little known facts, like how white my calves actually are, etc…

Its a big thing that I have a camera. Visiting a family on birthday day leads to epic photos. Children in front of my cake gift, not smiling.

Eventually we return to the interactive time where I answer questions, and periodically am made to do a trick, from making fruit salad to saying an English word. In this time I have to watch what I say. Yesterday I accidentally mentioned I was thinking about trying to make mandarin marmalade and before I knew it they had the ingredients on the table. I was then ordered to supervise a project I had no idea how to complete. Luckily the sun saved me, and I skipped out on a horse cart before the stuff was done cooking. (Which was probably not great…. I am pretty sure I quadrupled one ingredient and halved another accidentally…)

I have no idea what these families say about me when I leave. I would like to think they spend the evening discussing how great and beautiful I am. Most likely they catch up on the time they lost during my visit, and forget about my visit for a little while, until they go to their neighbors house the next day to buy milk and remember to share with her about the quirky Spanish and Guarani speaking German who came to their house yesterday and made some pretty watery marmalade.

The cake another neighbor hired me to make. That was a fun party. Everyone was so happy that the german girl knew how to make cakes like the Germans in town, but for cheaper!


Baby chickensssss. Some wealthy politician gave the committee money to buy everyone ten chickens. They were cute.


Baking my own Rosemary bread. Delish! (and gives people something to brag about with!)

Dirty Dirt

One of the most ironic things about Paraguay is its iconic, the infamous, red dirt. It is red. And it is everywhere. Its sandy, it does not stay put, it dries quickly, and its hue is well, beautifully red.

Amidst this dirt lives a people who are probably the tidiest people I know when it comes to negating this dirt from their lives. They embrace the dirt as their own, and then work hard, and yet seamlessly, to make its presence only known in their minds. As Peace Corps volunteers we were advised not to bring white shirts because of this dirt, yet Paraguayans living in the same town as I flaunt a white that almost glows.



I will never understand this. My shirts all have a little pink tint now. Short up straight-up bleaching them every wash, I accustom it to the power of the dirt. If its been a dry week, and a truck drives by me walking down the ruta, or main road, I arrive to my destination coated in a pinky-dust. Every week I brush off an every-returning pink hue from the side of my fridge and top of my stove. Even with doors and windows closed, it seeps in.

I had come to embrace the dirt. What else could I do? Recently a mis-understanding regarding a safety policy and my host family’s pride has caused a falling out. As we work our way back towards normalcy I immediately decided that it was probably good I never took to the fight against the dirt as they did. Sure, my white t-shirts (which they used to insist they wash) might be a little pink, along with the soles of my feet, but it does not bother me.

One morning about a month ago, I received the funniest ultimatum ever: My family decided to make me fight the dirt. You see, every morning they sweep the area surrounding their house to remove the ‘dirt’. Ironic because it’s dirt, it’s a dirt yard. I recognize that it does look beautiful and organized when they are done, and perhaps they have successfully maintained the ground from becoming a sandy mess. But looking at the tree roots laying out and vulnerable looking atop the glowing orange ground, I also wonder what they are doing for the erosion process…

Sweeping out my house, and my brick porch, my aunt said hello, followed by, “what you really need to sweep is your dirt lawn, it’s dirty.” Without complaint, to avoid confrontation, and giggling inside at the absurdity of it all, I stepped out in my boots and pajamas, grabbed the home-made broom resembling a witch’s favorite ride, and swept my little dirt area as best I could. We worked together to put the swept dirt in a bag to carry away.

My lawn does look pretty. But I have to wonder if sweeping away a centimeter of dirt every day is any better than paving a road through an ecosystem. Which is more civilized? Which is right? And how many more mornings will I now feel guilted into participating in what is surely man-made erosion.

And below:
Tony learned to shake! a blurry photo of my english class at graduation, and my garden in full bloom! Delicious!

Two Worlds Meet

The days leading up to my first visitor from home were easily some of my most exciting and yet some of my most nerve-wracking: It would be a clash of two worlds…someone from school, life in Vermont, my existence in the US, would arrive in Paraguay, my reality within the mysterious identity of the Peace Corps. At 6:15am on June 19th, my adventure began.

Within 3 hours it was as if Sarah had been here forever. The sun shone bright despite previous months of rain. In her first hours I noticed that the things that were new and surprising to her were generally what makes me laugh about Paraguay anyways. She loved the powerful feeling of a wad of 100 mils worth only about one hundred dollars. She became a Paraguayan soccer fan, watching her first game in the hotel lobby with the receptionist and maid. She savored the creamy-corny deliciousness of chipa guazu and the Lido bar’s infamous Fish soup. Then she froze with me on the overly climate controlled bus back to Villarica, newly addicted to Chipa (just like me).


At site, she took on the life of a volunteer. She slept plenty, read plenty, and my community adored the girl who could only say “hello”, “a little bit”, and “no”, and yet spent afternoons at their houses eating their sopa, empanadas, and mandioca smiling and laughing with her. We came home at night and Sarah talked about the pleasantries of “camping” in my “village.” (Apparently the mystery would not wear-off, I figured, after-all, I consider my life pretty fancy, and I definitely live in a pretty suburban community…).

Time passed quickly, and traveling began. After being told that Itaipu (large damn) was closed due to a Brazilian soccer game, we hitch-hiked to a Paraguayan-German hotel to watch Paraguay play its best game in the cup with a group of Guarani-swearing, terere-drinking men. The same afternoon we arrived in Argentina, where Spanish ruled, the steak and wine delicious, the roads paved, the waterfalls a visual, almost spiritual experience, and time passed too quickly.



Asuncion greeted us for the fourth of July with banners of red, white and blue covering the city… in celebration of Paraguay’s entrance into the final 8 of the world cup. To Sarah, the city also began to mean a break from the oil of traditional Paraguayan meals, where salads were available and not dangerous to eat, and where there were people who understood English. Surrounded by tvs and jersey’s we watched Paraguay fall from the world cup, saw the city’s heart deflating to disappear to houses terere in the plaza, and walked home as it began to rise again with honking, flag waving, and street fireworks in celebration of the success of the team of a small, fairly unknown country, and the message that gave to people around the world. Without planning, Sarah lucked out to be in Paraguay for the World Cup, an experience in itself.

Back to site we tacked on a few more Paraguay-only experiences. At 4 am on a Tuesday, Sarah milked her first cow with my host mom, then dined at 5 on fresh Cocido and bread chunks. My women’s committee cried when I told them she was leaving. The last night we carried home, roasted and ate the freshly slaughtered and cleaned 3 month old pig Sarah bought for her despedida “goodbye.”



On our last day in Asuncion, she followed me around as I did errands. We laughed at the over-all wearing hippie who came on the bus to play bamboo flute to a tune on his wooden boom-box, we officially befriended the craft-vender who had now sold us 2 cow-foot mugs, we lunched on the stairs of a closed night-club, had our last fancy dinner, and at midnight she headed towards the airport in taxi after our groggy goodbye.

It was the next morning that it sunk in how much I would miss her. All my fears of worlds combining melted within 10 minutes of seeing her, and bringing a taste of home to my experience here was exactly what I needed. Having lived (“camped”) in my community (“village”), didn’t drastically change her perspective on my life here, and it somehow made my experience, my time here, and my reason for being here more real.

Maybe Paraguay is morning her departure as well, since she has left its rained heavily for three days, and since beginning this post my electricity has gone in and out 3 times in an electrical storm…

Vamos Paraguay!

If there is anything I have learned over the last few weeks, its that Soccer is not soccer, its Futbol. Its that one team of about 15 people can truly inspire and connect a country with a giant economic and currently political divide, its that in my mind, futbol belongs to Latin America.

I know Paraguay just lost their game. I know a lot of people from home like Spain better because they studied there, because they think the players are cuter, or maybe because they just simply know the place. I have already gotten some messages saying to move on because Paraguay lost.

But they don't understand. I wanted Paraguay to win not because of the game. I wanted Paraguay to win, because when their star player was shot in the head in a blatant attack in Mexico last November the world didnt care, but Paraguayans held prayer circles. I wanted Paraguay to win because when they tied Italy in their first game, even without their lead striker, the country earned more google searches than ever before: people were noticing. I wanted Paraguay to win because when I wear my Paraguayan jersey around, every person I pass skips the normal catcall, questioning of my nationality, and skeezy whistles, and instead claps and thanks me for my support. I wanted Parguay to win because the players come from small rural towns, they trained in the red dirt shooting between pine-apply bushes and finally made it big time (many of the communities giving rise to the stars are still poor enough to have a Peace Corps volunteer.) I wanted Paraguay to win because after we lost today it felt like someone had died, the world went quiet, the streets in downtown Asuncion emptied... and then 30 minutes later, when the tears dried, and the death of a chance sufficiently mourned, the songs for the team and slow clapping for the team began to spread from alley to alley.

Unfortunately it looks like the World Cup finals are going to be two European countries. Not to discount their emotion, likely they have several important fans, but a win to them doesn't mean that the world will google them, that businesses will look into their economy, that they will receive any sort of economic or social benefit other than the prize money. And my guess is that Spain, however much they wanted to win that game, would not have followed the loss drying their wet eyes with claps of appreciation, respect and a goal for 2014 despite the recent deflation of a small country's whole-hearted dream. I guess in that sense, Paraguay won. And however cheesy this realization, I was dang proud to be wearing the red and white striped jersey and shouting at the Spaniards in Guarani.

Europe may keep taking the World Cup, but Futbol belongs to the spirit and heart of Latin America.

6 months of service (9 including training)… Done. A landmark. A success in time. A reminder that I have 18 months left. Time here plays with your mind. Days pass slowly, weeks fly by, months do both, and you wonder simultaneously if you can make it so long and if you have enough to make your service a complete success.

Who knows really. They say that the first 6 months here are the hardest. Come tomorrow, I will pass that landmark. I will also be climbing out of my biggest slump thus far. I hit a wall last week: my projects were being rejected, my community seemed hard if not impossible to motivate, a misunderstanding made a newly comfortable friendship regressed to the beginning. I felt like I was back at school with way too much work to even think about, except this time there was not a paper to write to solve my problems.

Nobody ever said Peace Corps was easy. In fact, when I asked most returned volunteers the response was generally a broad “It is an incredible, life-changing experience.” I am pretty sure people said that about seeing Avatar for the first time, so you can imagine my expectations: aside from likely lower living standards, not understanding the people I was supposed to work with very well, and new foods... I really didn’t have any.

When I got here I was astonished at my luck. Paraguay is after-all a beautiful country, with friendly people, pretty good food (obsessed with all forms of chipa, still), and dspite a minor set-back early on I was placed in a great little town ready to work. It wasn’t until Tuesday or so when the harder points of my new reality hit.

Tomorrow marks 6 months. Indeed, the newness of my situation is gone. It was a startling discovery, but it’s a new perspective, and a new opportunity. The things that didn’t work out so far, I wont continue. The things that did, I will. And all the extra time other volunteers DID warn me about but I did not understand until now, well I will utilize that for me instead of letting it make me feel like I don’t do enough. It may have taken me 6 months, but now I see that maybe I am the only one who always wants to start a worm compost or plant trees because I have no cows to milk, no chickens to feed, no children to care for, and no large fields to hoe and plant. Maybe I will change some of that (namely, a small demo-plot or field… no worries, no young children to take care of, and my neighbors politely destroyed my dream of owning a duck by reminding me that they had a pond and it would likely run towards their water… and away from me…)

The glitter may be gone, but I have 18 months left to try to make the most of my service. I will probably hit a few more walls, but the mean time I plan to continue to work for and with the town when they have time, and when they don’t, to add a little work for myself (home-made soap making? Crocheting? Painting? I have the time most people don’t have until retirement). I have no specific project or activity in mind, just a plan to utilize my opportunity to the best of my ability, because even in my low points, I recognize that it has been, and it will continue to be incredible to make my job, my home, and my life for the next 18 months in rural Paraguay.

And something is working for me, because my lack of a green thumb in the states has somehow made everything in my garden here in Paraguay start to grow! Maybe at the 9-month mark, I will at least have some amazing veggies to eat.

Tony is the most faithful and loyal dog ever. Follows me around everywhere.

Its sugarcane season, the farmers bring it to my house to load it up in a truck.


The one thing I am really pumped about is teaching the women's committee every 15 days. Here they are making dish soap from a kit. Its a lot cheaper to make your own than to buy it in the store.

The Rain

When they made jokes about volunteers beginning to shine any wood furniture in their house with their chap-stick due to weeks of rain in training, I didn’t believe it. The rains, when they came, were indeed ample at that time, but they went as fast as they came, and we were back to the heat.

They didn’t lie. I am now on my second day of rain, after a short 3 day break from 4 straight days of rain. And when I say a day of rain, I mean it has been raining all day, pouring at times, misting at others, with plenty of lightening and thunder interspersed. Since I am in Paraguay, this also means that life as I know it shuts down. The road becomes a mud-slide slalom for only the bravest or foolish moto-driver, school closes, meetings are canceled, and the world around me becomes muddy, wet, and freezing cold. (or around 45 degrees, which, without heat, feels close to freezing.)

In a way, it’s nice. On rainy days, nothing is expected of me. If I am not careful, I expect little of myself (the clouds, the mud, the families not leaving their own homes makes it uninspiring for me to do the same). You get into a rainy day zone, although it sometimes takes me a moment to remember were the rain leaks into my house and move my chair in time to not get wet. I do crafts, I plan charlas, I now surf the internet (something I only do on rainy days since it takes so long for random pages to load when I have things to do), I bake, I talk on my cell phone an obscene amount, and I head over in my mud boots to sit around the fogon with my host mom, drink mate, and talk about the latest family gossip (today’s conversation included my host sister’s new love interest, a local 19 year old police officer from the town over). And then, I go to bed ridiculously early, after tucking Tony into his bed (he gets cold too!) only to somehow wake up late the next day.


Short times seem long. And then you realize it is. Who knows if this is a standard Paraguayan winter, they cannot even remember what it was like last year (I think its an effect of the extreme heat during the summer. And after days of thinking “well, at least the garden is happy” I just went outside to see that many of my little plants succumbed to mud flows and drowned leaves.


Luckily there’s mate, fireside chats, and many warm blankets to bide the time until the sun returns, my world dries again, and I am far too busy to remember the down, although moist, times.

One day, between the rain, we got a little work done. Here are some kids at the school building a compost pile in front of the school garden we made!

My Veggie Tale

In the countryside of Paraguay, where land is fairly abundant and self-production of crops is common, it makes no sense NOT to have a garden. Paraguay is pushing for family gardens: they provide cheap and abundant food, and encourage families to include more vegetables in a country where meat and corn is generally preferred. Peace Corps encourages volunteers to join in on this process, so much so that we receive two days of garden training before headed out to site. We had practice each splitting one piece of bamboo (previously cut from the stock and into smaller pieces), and attaching them together with wire. We also collectively made three tablons (or above-ground seed-beds), and planted. The simplicity of each activity meant that three months later, in site and with a piece of land for my huerta-ra (future garden), I gave myself two days to get it all ready.
The real deal was nothing like training, or it was, but about ten times more difficult. My piece of land was 3 times the size of our training garden, and it came unclean. I spent the first day chopping and removing all thick vines and root-filled plants from the land with my machete, host mom leading the way. Soon after I was hoeing away at the remaining grasses, a process that took me two days, a weeklong hiatus to wait for rain and a softer ground to continue the process, and then another afternoon. Once clean, we had to fence it off. I was fortunate enough to have chain-link fence donated to me. So it only took one full day to dig deep holes, seek out wood to serve as posts, and nail the chain-link fence to it all. Unfortunately, it didn’t fit.
Then came bamboo. I searched around my garden for the small, pre-sawed pieces provided to me in training… I found none. Off to the bamboo fields in a horse cart, where for an entire morning my sister and I searched the bamboo for mature stalks, chopped them down by machete, and then pulled and dragged them into a pile before sawing them into semi-smaller pieces and piling them back in the cart to take home.
The next 5 days were non-stop work. First I cut the bamboo into usable sizes and then split it. Then I dug and installed a place for my compost pile, abonera in Spanish. Next I installed the bamboo in the places the fence would not reach (no chickens!). Finally my brother helped me nail together a gate. I then began digging. Double digging a seed-bed is a tiring activity, one that took me two days to complete six. By that time, my hands were bruised from slamming the shovel in the ground, and I swear my forearm had new muscles. I finally spent a day hoeing and raking down the seed-beds into nice little rectangles. That night I slept for over twelve hours, recuperating the energy my work had drained from me. The next morning I planted, including putting out semi-cheesy and yet needed marking signs for where I planted what. Then I went to a training activity.
The garden, right after planting and the first water! May never look this good again.
I returned frightful, a heavy rain had come during my absence, and though I new I did my best, I doubted my ability to keep seeds from washing away in the tides from the sky. They didn’t. I have radishes already an inch tall, and the arugula is coming in thick, crowding rows with a thick green. My small planters are full of broccoli, coliflower, eggplant, pepper, and tomato seedlings. Looking at my garden I have never been so proud and intimidated simultaneously. It was the hardest physical work I have done yet here, and though it took some time, I did it. Paraguayans are impressed, and I am amazed. I realize that the battle will continue. Soon will come droughts, bugs, and unwanted weeds. But its there, its complete, and as of right now, it looks pretty dang good.


PS. The list of things planted includes: beets, thyme, lettuce (3 types), arugula, broccoli, small pumpkins, butternut squash, cucumber, onion, cabbage, eggplant, cowpeas, basil, spinach, banana peppers, garden beans, zucchini, summer squash, cilantro, parsley, carrots (2 types), radishes, jalapenos, tomatoes, peppers, and coliflower. Lets hope it all sprouts!

P.S.S. As always, any additional seeds are welcome! The seed availability in Paraguay is limited, and several of the ones already planted and doing the best came in a package from my mom (thanks!). I am especially interested in tomatillo and other hot weather seeds…

View from a bit closer.

Now More random photos!


He is getting bigger! Now double the length of my shoe.


Still a smiley puppy.


My family killed their year old huge pig one morning. It took the entire family to raise it up to be skinned. They sold only the meat, which added up to 93 Kilos (about 180 pounds) and then ate all of the bacon, skin, fat, and the head. I politely declined most of it. Just couldn't do it.